Pine Straw Mulch – Pine Needle for Winterizing Your Garden

Posted by Terry Gray | Landscaping | Saturday 3 October 2009 8:07 am
by Terry Gray

It is considered the fact Pine Straw mulch is a sustainable, renewable resource, it’s so wonderful and lightweight to work with pine needle and looks very attractive. Young seedlings can grow through pine needle, water can filter down through it, the soil can breathe and yet pine straw still holds in moisture. It lasts quite longer than other similar materials and pine needle won’t blow away with the first big rain.

In fall mulching with pine straw has an serious function since temperatures in the late fall to winter months can change radically. The ground heaves as it freezes and thaws, forcing the root systems of many fragile plants up from the soil and exposing them to the elements. Just about all plants are much healthier when they have a layer of pine needle mulch spread over their roots.

When mulching with pine straw you should wait until the ground is frosty or most frigid before you add the pine needle. Any earlier cover will encourage mold and mildew to form on the surface. Generally, a 2- to 3-inch layer of pine needle mulch situated over the root area of a plant will provide a detectable difference in the plant’s health. Established plants will show less stress and better growth. Just be sure to pull pine straw mulch an inch or two off from the stems of shrubs or from the trunks of trees. If pine needle mulch is heaped-up up against trunks or stems, it can contain too much moisture and promote decay along the bark.

Many people make the fault of using less reliable fall mulch such as hay in their garden. Hay is not a good choice to pine straw since hay often carries seeds that will eventually sprout and cause weed problems in your garden bed in the spring. Pine straw comes from several different species of pine trees that drop their pine needles or ?straw? by nature through the year. Once the pine needle drops to the ground, it is cleansed and baled, without ever taking down a single tree. Since it is produced naturally, pine straw sometimes is referred to as the “guilt-free” mulch. Each species’ of pine tree will have its own unique characteristics, such as pine needle length, wax content and needle flexibility. The Loblolly species of pine straw, for instance, has a pine needle length ranging from about six to nine inches, making it easy to utilize and shape. Also, the needle size is optimum for allowing the soil to breathe well while allowing excellent water infiltration.

Ideally, garden mulch for the wintertime is added in the fall to protect against sudden and extreme temperature dips before plants have had a chance to fully harden. A few inches of pine straw mulch can provide a cushion of as much as Ten degrees above ambient air temperatures which is just enough to keep roots growing. And certainly, a top dressing of pine needle mulch offers ornamental appeal, making the lawn to look cared for at a time when the garden can look a little underwhelming.

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Potted Bulbs For Landscape Color

Posted by Thomas Fryd | Landscaping | Thursday 1 October 2009 10:09 am
by Thomas Fryd

One friend of mine has a passion for growing potted bulbs. She loves the ability to have “moving color” wherever she wants it. Here’s some tips from her on how she pots and grows her flowering bulbs.

First of all she uses new pots or one she has scrubbed clean and ran through a 10% bleach solution. But she always first soaks in water until bubbles cease to form before ever potting. In the bottom of each pot she places broken crockery for drainage. Above this she puts a light layer of coarse peat. To within 2 to 3 inches below the rim of the pot, depending on the size of the bulbs, she fills a mixture of 1/3 peat and sand, 2/3 garden soil. After firming this she places the bulbs and adds more of the soil mixture just below the rim of the pot. This she also firms. When finished the nose of the bulbs are visible above the soil. If a little more soil is still needed she adds what is required, firming it nicely.

The pots are then plunged one by one in a bucket of water. When they cease bubbling they are removed and allowed to drain. When drained they are placed in a cool dark place to root. Most bulbs are rooted in the dark but not all. In the light in a cool room she places Paper-white Narcissus, Grand Soleil d’or Narcissus, Hyacinths, Freesias, Anemones and Ranunculus.

Bulbs Favorites for Potted Culture

MUSCARI (Grape Hyacinth)

Heavenly Blue is commonly called Grape Hyacinth. It is a good name too because that is just what they look like. The flowers for all the world resemble inverted miniature bunches of grapes. Plant the bulbs in shoals or “drifts” either large or small, set them in the rockery; grow them by shrubbery and along the walk. They are hardy, will increase rapidly, and may be grown in pots. Height about 9 to 10 inches. The blossoms have a faint musk odor hence the name Muscari. Plant the bulbs 2 inches deep, 2 inches apart.

NARCISSUS

The culture for the Narcissus either in the garden or in pots is the same as for the Daffodil. The entire family of Narcissus lend themselves admirably to naturalizing. Grow them in open woodland, on sunny slopes, in grassy meadows, by the garden pool with floating solar pool lights and along the landscaping walks. Before planting the bulbs in grassy meadows, see to it that the soil is well fertilized, as they must depend for a long time on the food that is in the soil. Do not cut the grass until after the Narcissus foliage has ripened. Plant the bulbs 5 inches deep, 4 inches apart.

Polyanthus Narcissus are NOT hardy. They are mostly grown in pots, fancy bowls and shallow dishes. They blossom in about 6 or 7 weeks and are grown in the light in a cool room. Set them in soil in clay Pots, in bulb fibre in fancy bowls or in pebbles and water in shallow dishes. Paperwhites bear waxy scented white blossoms in bunches. Grand Soleil d’or has a yellow flower with reddish orange cup. It is also scented and produces its flowers in clusters. In flower about a week later than Paperwhite Narcissus, Soleil d’or is a little taller.

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Matching Your Skidsteer And Attachments

Posted by George Ross | Landscaping | Monday 28 September 2009 7:04 am
by George Ross

A power source to run a wide array of functions depending on the attachment is a skidsteer’s primary purpose. This means that there are different criteria in measuring performance of a rig.

A purchaser needs to understand these various factors that he needs to consider before picking a choice. The work that needs to be accomplished is a very important consideration. The buyer must check specs of larger and smaller models from the same company as well as competing brands. It is a good idea to compare heights, hydraulic pressure and angles, and engine power as well to name just a few.

A specific level of performance is needed from a loader’s hydraulic system especially for hydraulically powered attachments. Skidsteers do have a range of hydraulic flows and pressures and the carrier you pick should be able to provide the flow and pressure that fall within the range that your attachment needs.

It is also important to take note of the hydraulic horsepower. This determines a rig’s capability. If you have inadequate power, you can always expect a poor performance. It can also damage both your loader and the attachment.

Lifting capacity of your loader is a vital factor when establishing attachment compatibility. One must make sure that a loader is capable enough to carry the attachment safely around the work area on all four wheels.

Not all attachments are compatible with any make of skidsteers. Always check manufacturer specifications to prevent voiding of the warranty. Find out if the company allows the attachment before installing any conversion kit.

Heat can greatly affect the performance of any hydraulic system. Make sure your rig will be able to withstand the heat generated by your attachment. Note that some manufacturers offer optional oil cooling packages.

Skidsteers are used as a power source for attachments that are designed for a specific purpose. When you are on the look out for a loader, Make sure that you look for the right equipment to ensure optimum performance and utilization of your rig.

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Stihl Chainsaw – The Cutting Edge

Posted by George Ross | Landscaping | Tuesday 22 September 2009 7:32 am
by George Ross

Among the names looked up to in chainsaw technology is the Stihl chainsaw. It is one of the leaders in the field of large wood cutting machinery. Stihl personifies old world craftsmanship and state of the art sawing technology.

The corporation follows a meticulous guideline in selling policies. This machines are only sold in places where service can be done according to factory speculations. Always present to assist you are trained specialists in Stihl technology and will even provide demonstrations of the proper usage and operation of your rig.

Stihl saws are a big help not only in large wood cutting but outdoor decorating as well. Among the rising outdoor fashion these days is chainsaw carving. It is slowly gathering up enthusiasts, and it is an art that has been perfected by some artists already. You can use a chainsaw in hollowing out a tree trunk and using it for your landscape.

The Stihl Company was founded by Andreas Stihl in Stuttgart, Germany in 1926. He started the plant to develop electric saws. It didn’t take long for them to develop the electric bucksaw. It was also them that built the first gasoline powered chainsaw.

To name a few of the many advantages in using a Stihl chainsaw are innovative features like a smooth clean design minus any rough edges that might snag clothing. A chain catcher is also added to lessen the chance of injury in the unlikely event that a chain should break or derail. An anti vibration feature is also supplemented to reduce fatigue for the user.

Starting is so much faster and easier with the chainsaw’s electronic ignition. Bumper spikes are added to provide for better control. The front hand guard effectively eliminates accidental injury.

Prices of a Stihl chainsaw may vary according to size and added features. If the work requires a heavier tool with more capabilities, the price may rise with it as well. The saws are very fairly priced though, making Stihl chainsaws one of the biggest selling items in the market today.

When out looking for a tool to do the job right, it is best to rely on a name that symbolizes technology and reliability. It wouldn’t hurt to go for a name that has been proven to be a provider of excellent service for many decades like the Stihl Chainsaw.

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Designing Your Outdoor Lighting

Posted by Jane A. Moore | Landscaping | Friday 18 September 2009 10:22 am

Fall is the season when I seem to take most advantage of our backyard outdoor lighting. Less daylight means longer evenings in the backyard while it is still warm enough to bar-b-q enjoy the patio set until bedtime. It also means that I turn on the backyard lights a little earlier each evening to enjoy the late summer nights.

Earlier in the year, the evenings stay light until at least past the kids bedtime, and often even later than the time our friends all go home in order to get up for work the next day. I just don’t seem to use my backyard lights until the shorter days of fall, when evenings get dark way before it’s time to come in.

My love of designing outdoor lighting schemes really only began when my partner and I bought our current house. I first saw how charming and romantic an interesting lighting scheme and a few well placed spotlights could be one time I was dining at a downtown restaurant patio after dark. Since then, we have experimented with the lighting plan in our backyard every year, adding and moving string lights, sometimes adding rope lights, sometimes using twinkly lights. Generally the color palette is only white, though sometimes I use color as an accent.

The first thing you need to consider when developing an outdoor lighting scheme is safety. The pathways and the doorways need to be properly illuminated in order to prevent any unexpected stumbles. Properly lit entrance ways including any back alleys that might border your property also increase your level of personal safety. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 100 watts of light at every door, set of steps, or any other place that you might want to go to at night ie alleys or garbage bin areas,

After ensuring that your main areas have been well lit, you can take care of the interesting part of your backyard lighting design. Wrapping rope lights around the trunks of trees is always a striking effect, as is using spotlights to focus attention on an interesting statue or bush in your garden. For special occasions I have a string of twinkly lights that I’ve placed in the ivy along our neighbours fence. And my favorite effect is always natural light – torches serve double duty as a lovely ambient touch, as well as keeping mosquitoes away by burning citronella oil.

A well thought out backyard lighting scheme can double your use of your outdoor space, by turning an unlit and unused outdoor space into a spectacular evening focal point that your family can enjoy all year round. Using your outdoor space is one of the cheapest ways to expand your living space, and a little time with some inexpensive outdoor lights will probably be one of the best decorating jobs you do to your house. The bonus is that it is also very flexible – if you see some new ideas that you like, it is simply a matter of moving a few lights and you have a whole new outdoor lighting design!

To learn more about decorative outdoor lighting visit outdoor lighting.

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Easy Ways to Maintain and Enhance Your Outdoor Water Features

Posted by Paula Alford | Landscaping | Thursday 17 September 2009 7:38 am

Big or small you can make your yard a spot of beauty and serenity with a small pond. By employing a little imagination and some cash saving techniques you can experience a one of a kind focal point that won’t break your bank.

Keeping It Clean

Use an aquarium vacuum that you can pick up at any pet store or pet area of a department store. This simple tool is essentially a long hose with a broad based suction head to cover as much area as feasible while being comfortable to manage. This ought to be done once a week during the summer months. You will want to replace the water you take out in the course of cleaning.

Add a waterfall or other water airing to hold algae down. A waterfall or aerator adds oxygen to the water which is beneficial if you wish to maintain fish in your pond as well as to restrict algae levels. They also help keep the water circulating and temperature lower to evade an algae bloom that will make your water green.

Light It Up

Situate lights in strategic locations in the region of the edge of your pool in the plants, rocks, or even under the surface of the water. Set the timer to turn on a few minutes before sunset, and set it to turn off a few minutes after your usual bedtime. Using timers will cut the cost of lighting your pond so that the lights are only on throughout the times you are most likely to see them.

Save Money on Water Use

Make use of self contained pond and filter elements so that you only have to replace water once a week when cleaning your pond. Buy the best filter you can pay for and make sure it is the correct size for your pond so that you have to change grimy water less frequently

Plant Care

Plants can improve visual attractiveness to your pond as well as help keep the water in sunny condition. Letting plants grow out of check, however, can have the reverse effect as well as letting them acquire mold and mildew. Keep your plants well pruned and check on them often.

Chemicals

If your water gets out of hand on you in spite of your consistent efforts you can apply chemicals to limit algae or other contaminants that can affect muddy water. If you have your pond populated with fish be sure any chemicals are nontoxic for use with live animals. Most pond supply stores only have algaecides and enzyme products that are harmless to use with fish.

Conclusion

A pond is typically a highlight of any landscape and requires monitoring and maintenance. It can become a hobby of sorts, because after you have one you feel a desire to keep improving it. Stay within your means and remember to enjoy it. By following the simple ideas mentioned you can control your pond and appreciate its intended real and emotional beauty.

Paula Alford has made Ulitimate Landscape Concepts a leader in landscaping for several reasons. First and foremost, their service. After all, landscaping is a service business. Second, their detailed and colorful blueprints. Not chintzy, obscure drawings, but architectural renderings where you see what the end result will be. This article powered by SEO 2.0 Services

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5 Easy and Simple Steps to expert Repair Lawns

Posted by Spence Arnold | Landscaping | Sunday 13 September 2009 9:08 am

You only need to do five quick steps to repair your lawn. Although there are different lawns throughout the country, these steps will work for almost any lawn. The first thing you need to do is evaluate the problem. For example, if your lawn has yellow spots, it could be from fertilizing too much, pests, or not getting enough water. When you discover the problem, you can keep it from causing trouble in the future.

Thatching – The first procedure is thatching. De-thatching is done with a manual dethatching rake or with a power rake and sometimes with both. The best time to thatch is typically in the spring or fall, but it can be done safely any time the grass is growing aggressively. Thatching will remove any dead organic matter from the lawn. (In the case of the yellow spots, it would remove the dead and dying yellow grass.) It lets water and air more easily reach the grass roots. It also leaves room to plant more grass.

Aerating – The second step to repairing a lawn is aeration. As with de-thatching, aeration can be done with a machine or by hand. Either way works, it is just important to use an aerator that leaves cores or plugs on the lawn. Aeration helps open up the soil so water, air, nutrients, and fertilizer can reach the root system of the grass. It also helps to break up hard soil.

Over seeding- Although there are special over seeders, most over seeding can easily be done using a hand over seeder. In sparse lawns, it way be worth it to over seed the lawn 2 or 3 times. If you are using a hand spreader, you want to make sure to cover the lawn on a setting of a the largest setting. When you over seed, be patient. Depending on the weather, it may take 3 to 6 weeks for the grass seed to come in. It may take another month or 2 for the grass seed to get established

The last and very important step is adding peat moss on the top of the grass. Peat moss is a soft, organic, moss derived from the northern United States and Canada. It is beneficial because it keeps birds from eating the grass seed, and keeps the seed and newly germinated grass at the optimal temperature, and moist (cuts down on watering). A large bale covers four to five hundred square feet. Apply by shaking the bale out across the lawn and then using a rake to even it out.

Peat Moss – The last step is to put down peat moss. It is a moss that is harvested in Canada and the northern – Midwest United States. It acts as mulch keeping the ground temperature more temperate and moist. It also keeps the birds from eating the seed. The best way to put it on is to shake it out of the back and rake over the piles spreading it evenly over the lawn. A large bale should typically cover 4 to 5 hundred square feet.

Spencer is a lawn repair professional. For more knowledge on thatching or Lawn Aerating please visit our site.

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The Purpose Of Tree Landscape

Posted by Kent Higgins | Landscaping | Thursday 3 September 2009 10:14 am

In Eastern Canada, the trees that have been used most successfully as street trees are the hard, or sugar, maple, the Norway maple, the European linden and the red and white oaks – though the oaks are rather slow growing. In the north and west, where the climate is more severe, the best street trees are the American elm, hackberry and green ash.

Because trees need to be in scale with the houses, modern homes call for much smaller street trees than the large ones named above. Shingle oak, hornbeam and smaller forms of European linden are excellent. There are also selected forms of Norway and red maple that do not grow as large as the natural species. These are more suitable for modern subdivisions.

Windbreaks and Screens

Exposed home sites, such as farmsteads or suburban properties, often need rows of trees to protect them against wind. Here the need is for rapid, dense growth. The exposed position naturally demands the utmost hardiness and, because the planting is close, the shape of the individual tree does not matter as long as the mass is effective.

The requirements are the same for trees used to shut off the view of unsightly objects, or to form a background for the more colorful displays of the garden. In the country or on suburban properties, poplar, willow, ash, pine and spruce trees make the best windbreaks and screens. In the city, there is not usually room for trees larger than the Chinese elm or the native cedar; on small lots screening is usually done with shrubs or single trees of attractive form.

Framing

Trees on larger properties are used to frame the view of the house. Similarly, the view from the house, of distant objects of interest or portions of the garden, may be framed by trees to create a more pleasing picture. As the view should always be more interesting than the frame, such trees should be chosen for their ability to “play second fiddle” gracefully. Those with average habit of growth and color of foliage are most pleasing.

Specimens

Trees may be used as specimens or as accent points to emphasize the design of the garden. Trees used singly or in groups for these purposes are chosen for their distinctive characters: for example, an unusually attractive habit of growth, as in Camperdown elm, weeping birch, or pyramid cedar, a colorful foliage as in Schwedler’s Norway maple, golden cedar or copper beech; or the particular grace of hemlock or the fall brilliance of the leaves of red maple and red oak. These qualities and the more obvious charm of abundant bloom or fruit, as with Japanese lilac or flowering crabs, make trees worthwhile specimens.

Conifers

The taller-growing conifers and natal mahogany tree are used in all the above ways. All sizes of conifers and natal mahogany are becoming more useful as the knowledge and appreciation of garden design increases. Because of their dense, evergreen, fine-textured foliage and their definite forms, conicrs are the most solid-appearing plants at our disposal. They are the best ones with which to build architectural form into our gardens. They clip well and can’ be held to constant form. Using them as a framework to emphasize divisions and accent points heightens the impression that the garden and house are related.

Conifers may be used to accentuate any sort of architectural line. The classic column is matched by the pyramid cedar or Swedish juniper, and the spreading lines of Savin’s or Pfitzer’s juniper carry out to perfection the lines of a rambling bungalow. The definite lines of good architecture can be brought out by the definite shapes of well-selected conifers planted at strategic positions.

There is, however, a great danger in using them indiscriminately or in too great variety without regard to the architecture of the house. Often deciduous shrubs are much more suitable.

In times like these it is easy to see why so many people like yourself are interested in natal mahogany tree. Join us http://www.plant-care.com/natal-mahogany-house-plant-for-overwaterers.html.

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Choosing The Right Outdoor Fountain

Posted by Cheryl L. True | Landscaping | Wednesday 2 September 2009 7:10 am

Outdoor water fountains, often referred to as garden fountains, are made from different shapes, sizes and materials. You’ll find rock waterfalls used in landscaping that appear like real rocks with water flowing down. You’ll also discover tiered fountains where water flows from tier to tier or bowl to bowl. This can normally be seen in the middle of a yard or courtyard.

You will often see garden style fountains made from these three materials, namely, fiberglass, stone/granite and ceramic. Of course, there are those made from copper to slate to stainless steel. In this article we will compare the ones made of fiberglass and cast stone since they are the most common.

Fiberglass outdoor fountains likewise come in many different styles. You can find lightweight outdoor fountains that look like rocks, tiered styles with 1 to 6 levels, Japanese styles and various other unique designs, all constructed of fiberglass materials. These fountains typically have a “stone-like” finish to make them look like real, natural stone fountains.

The biggest advantage of a fiberglass outdoor fountain is its weight. As it is made of fiberglass, your garden fountain won’t weigh much, making it easier to maneuver, move and clean. A lot of fiberglass tiered fountains have a spin lock system so the pieces can be separated for quick storage in cold months and easy cleaning.

Another good factor about fiberglass garden fountains is that they are easier to deliver, thus putting the cost down. One big letdown is that they can fade or chip in the long run from the sun and elements.

Often, stone or granite garden fountains are really cast stone and not solid concrete or granite to keep the weight to a minimum. The great thing about a cast stone garden fountain is its beauty and strength. However, cast stone is heavy so select a permanent place for it in your yard. They can be positioned elsewhere but it will take plenty of time and effort.

You’ll never have to worry about order three tiered garden fountains again! Visit us on the web at buy three tiered garden fountains to learn more.

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How Often Should A Septic Tank Be Pumped?

Posted by Amy Nutt | Landscaping | Thursday 27 August 2009 9:02 am
by Amy Nutt

A septic system is an underground wastewater treatment system. These systems are used to treat and dispose of on-site household wastewater. When you use a septic system, there is maintenance required in order to keep your system running efficiently. One important maintenance procedure is having a septic tank pumped.

The septic tank is a waterproof box that is normally made of concrete or fiberglass. The tank contains an enter and exit pipe. Wastewater flows from the home to the septic tank through the sewer pipe. The waste is cleansed and clean water is sent to the underground water table.

How often a septic tank is pumped depends on the size of the tank. It is recommended that you clean your septic by having it pumped every 1 to 3 years. Many experts say that for a 1000 gallon septic tank, it should be pumped every 3 years. You also have to factor in how many rooms and the number of people living in the home. The more a tank is used, the shorter the period between pumping the tank.

When you have your tank pumped, you will be emptying it out, and therefore you will be getting rid of bacteria that consume the waste. You may want to get a box of ’starter’ or activation bacteria and flush into down the septic pipes. They will thrive in the conditions once the pumped tank is in use again. It is important to never use products such as bleach, detergent, and other chemicals because it can damage the septic system as well as kill the bacteria. As well, do not flush foods such as fats, and oils which can also damage the system. Other larger and solid foods can cause blockage in your septic drain lines. You should never put anything in the drain line that can harm the environment.

Each septic tanks system can hold a specific quantity of waste so it is important to make sure you are not exceeding the capacity by sending non essential substances through the septic drain lines. You should also practice water conservation techniques. Toilets are now available that are designed to use less water. They are more powerful and can flush everything usually once. You can also buy a water meter to measure your water use. If your sewage treatment system is reaching its maximum capacity, try to cut back on water use for such activities as washing clothes, dishes, running baths, and flushing the toilet too much. Check your pipes in the home on a regular basis to make there are no leaks and make sure your toilet is not constantly running.

Following a few easy maintenance tasks and having your septic tank pumped, you will preserve the septic system for many years. As well, using natural substances to treat waste water makes the system environmentally friendly. Having a septic tank replaced is extremely expensive so why not avoid the financial hardship by properly using and maintaining your septic system.

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